First of all, let me explain something, in case it wasn’t clear. There are 22 regions of France (27 if you include all the overseas territoires). This is similar to there being 50 states in the US. Each region is broken down into departements, which is kind of like how there are counties in states. It can get more complicated, but let’s just say after this there are cities. (Actually the next level is cantons, but I only sort of understand it, and it’s not important to anything else I have to explain. Look it up if you want.)
I am in the region of Limousin, which is broken down into 3 departements: Haute-Vienne, Creuse, and Corrèze. As I mentioned, I’m in Corrèze, in the city of Tulle. Limoges is the capital of Limousin, as I also mentioned previously, and for some reason the “school district” is called by the main city of the area. Hence, L’Academie de Limoges. Tulle is the capital of Corrèze, even though Brive is bigger.
Now, what can get confusing is that, since this is a “country” region, people travel from city/village to city/village in the departement as easily as people live in the suburbs and work and go to school downtown in US cities. But I’ll get to more about this later.
The plane ride was uneventful. I read a little, ate a little, and took my new prescription allergy meds that make me drowsy.
Going through customs, the guy behind the window thought I was French. But just because I can say “Bonjour” without a screaming American accent. The confidence this brought was lost about 5 minutes later. I watched all the suitcases circulate. Mine wasn’t there. I wasn’t really upset by this; in fact, I figured it was going to happen. I had to run to make my transfer, and while I was packing I realized my suitcase had always made it on and off the plane with me. I went to talk to a guy behind a desk in this little room about it. We spoke in broken Franglais. It was horrible, and I was super-embarrassed that he was trying to use his English and that my French was a train wreck.
But we got the job done. The only address I had to give him was that of the school, the only phone number I had was Marie-Christine Renson’s. It could have been worse. So, I walked out of there with my suitcase to be sent to Ecole Elementaire Turgot and a “toilet kit” with a few Q-tips, some weird shampoo, and an extra large white T-shirt in it. It was awfully thoughtful of Air France, though.
I took the RER “train into the city,” as it is marked on the Airport Charles de Gaulle signs. It’s basically just an extension of the metro, except it’s connected to the airport. Because the train station I needed is one of the few (I think) not connected to that RER line, I got off at a stop (something that has to do with St. Michel and/or Notre Dame) and got on a metro to the Paris Austerlitz train station.
It was actually a good thing my suitcase was delayed. That way, I didn’t have to lug it through the crowded metro stations and squeeze it on the metro. I’m a lot stronger than I look, but the suitcase is big and bulky. On the train ride, I listened to the CD Seth made me and almost cried when I heard “Leavin’ on a Jet Plane.” I read and tried to sleep.
When I arrived in Brive, I realized I had no idea what Marie-Christine looked like. I wandered around the mostly empty train station and scanned the people that were there for someone who looked like a Madame Marie-Christine Renson. I have no idea what I thought that was supposed to look like. Anyway, a short lady comes up to me and asks if I am Rebecca. She didn’t ask earlier because I didn’t have a suitcase. I explained to her in my barely functional French that it got lost along the way.
Marie (she asked to just be called that) explained in the car that I was going to spend the weekend at a family’s house in a little town called Bar. If I didn’t have a place to stay by then, then I would stay with a different family. The mother would take me to Turgot with her the next morning, so I could meet Marie to work on my emploi du temps, my timetable. Along with this was some discussion that they hoped I didn’t mind the country. Marie also explained that I would actually work in three different schools, and she seemed surprised that I didn’t already know that.
She also explained to me that Limousin was known for (at least by its habitants) their good beef, chestnuts, and mushrooms. Let’s see… Me and my picky eating habits. I like one out of those three things. Go me. But Marie also told me that I would find things to eat, that it wasn’t a big deal. If I liked cheese, I was fine.
She couldn’t find the house. We got out of the car and walked up and down the street looking at the names on mailboxes. We even tried yelling into a house whose side door was open. There were people inside, but they never came to see who was outside asking, “Personne?” Oh, and by we, I mean Marie.
Eventually we got back in the car and Marie figured out that the “grange” that the family lived in was off of this little hidden road.
By the time we pull in, a woman and her daughter are outside. The introduction goes by too fast for me to remember any names. But the mother asked me if I’d ever read the book Rebecca by Daphne du Maurier. I was surprised that she knew it. Of course, that’s not the best reason for someone to be able to remember your name… I told her I had read it. (Although I probably should re-read it, because I’m not sure my 8th grade self understood everything on the same level that my adult self would…)
Marie explained about my suitcase. And the mother explained to me that a “grange” was where animals live, and I would be sleeping where some farm animal used to sleep. Light bulb. I was thinking they lived in a garage turned into a house, but a barn makes more sense. So, for all you people who sorta know Kentucky, you can add another city to your list of French and/or European name cities. Makes LaGrange sound much less fancy, doesn’t it?
Marie left. I explained about my picky eating, and it was fine. I ate spaghetti with beef in it (spaghetti bolonaise? I also can’t spell.), and oddly, even though I was starving, my hunger evaporated. The daughter was excited to have a guest and she chattered away really fast and loud. I felt like Marlin in Finding Nemo. “Look, you’re really cute, but I can’t understand what you’re saying.” She kept getting shushed, because it was obvious I didn’t understand (which I think was a hard concept for her to grasp) and because her brother, Jean, was asleep. His name was easy to catch.
After we ate, we sat on the couch and they showed me a photo album. The father was at work. (Because I eventually figured out their names, I’m going to just go ahead and use them). Emilie, the mum, pointed him out in a photo. The next photo was of a llama or a camel or something and she said, “That’s not the dad.” It’s difficult to explain her sense of humour without actually experiencing it… I also got to see pictures of Jean.
Anouk,the girl, went to bed soon. Emilie made me an infusion; I’m not sure what the English word is, but it’s like tea except somehow different… The only thing I can think of is that there aren’t any actual tea leaves in it, so it’s a tisane or herbal tea (see in English we still use the word “tea” because it tastes just like flavoured tea). We talked for a bit, and I went to bed. I was overwhelmed then, and it made me really sad that there was a double bed all to myself.
In the morning I got to meet Alban, who is a musician with long hair, and Jean, who definitely has those same percussionist genes. If it had been up to me, I wouldn’t have woken up at 7am the morning after my flight, but it wasn’t up to me. I put on clothes that Emilie lent me, and was surprised that they fit. I think French people are a little shorter, and they’re tiny… But still, she’s birthed two children.
That day was a crazy blur. I met almost all of Emilie’s colleagues in the morning and then played around on the school internet while waiting for Marie. When she got there, she talked to teachers about what times they would want me to intervene in their classes. It was complicated. It turns out that Emilie, who didn’t know much English, would have to teach it. Her second language is German… One of the other teachers there, Laurent, has no interest in English, so I get to lead the whole class. Fun.
Then we went to Marie’s office, in the only really tall building in Tulle, ate lunch, then looked at apartment adds. Then, we went to one of my other schools, in the town of Laguenne. Luckily, Laguenne is so close to Tulle it’s included in their bus routes. Marie did the same thing all over again as far as finding out when I should work there. The whole thing is more complicated than I can explain. Then, she took me to the supermarket in Laguenne to buy underwear before dropping me back off to Emilie. I had no idea what size to get, because European sizes are way different.
Emilie and I picked up the kids at Alban’s mom’s house. So I got to meet Alban’s mom. Then Emilie stopped by the bank, since I needed to open a bank account, and her mom worked there. You need an address to open a bank account. So I’d go back later. We went to a bakery to get bread. Anouk held my hand crossing the street, which was adorable.
The weekend was interesting. We went to the library on Saturday and I borrowed a Samuel Beckett play on Emilie’s card. I finished my book in English. We went to Emilie’s friend/ another teachers house farther in the country. She had horses. We went into the nearby woods to search for girolles, a type of mushroom, and chestnuts. We ate them with dinner. Or rather, everyone else ate them, I tasted them. I was never hungry but always eating, and always eating “different” things.
Oh, and Saturday, I got my suitcase. The story is actually quite funny. I figured I wouldn’t get it until Monday, since they would deliver it to the school and nobody would be there on Saturday. But. They called Marie. She asked if they were going to pass through Brive. They said yes. So they delivered the suitcase to her. Alban just happened to be doing an outdoor concert in Brive that day. The two of them had never, ever met, but somehow they figured out who the other was. Probably, Alban’s name was on a program or something and if Marie didn’t know his name, she recognized the last name. Anyway, I got my suitcase back. This is the great thing about small towns. 🙂
Monday morning, Emilie asked me if it was okay if I stayed with them the rest of the time until I found a place instead of going to another family. Of course, this was fine by me. It made me happy that they’d adopted me. I met Marie at the the school again, and she took me to my third school, Juliot Curie. We did the whole confusing making a timetable thing.
Eventually, I think it was tuesday, Marie and I visited the Foyer du Jeune Travilleur. If you can translate at all, yes, it is a place where young workers live. It’s basically a dorm. The guy in charge, George, showed me their three open rooms. They were all more than I wanted to pay, and not really worth that much, but electricity and water is included. And I can apply for CAF, which is government aid. All I had to do was prove that I didn’t make money in 2009. This was weird to me, but I didn’t make that much money in 2009, so I went with it.
After we looked at the rooms, we went back to Marie’s office and ate lunch. She asked what I thought, and I told her if she was sure I would get CAF, the rooms were fine. So, she called George back and we visited the bank. We asked specifically for Emilie’s mom, but she was on her way out. The recptionist/teller lady ran out and got her for us…
Emilie’s mum told me I needed a paper as proof of address, and we set an appointment to set up an account Thursday. Marie and I went back to FJT, where they explained a lot of money stuff. While I was waiting for the CAF, which took a few months, I would only have to pay the amount they expected I would have to pay. We also started the long process of paperwork… Everything is paperwork. I would move in Thursday morning.
Emilie and the kids and I went to a lake that afternoon. It was almost October, and we were in our swimsuits in the sun. I played in the water a bit. I found a rock that looked like half a heart and decided to keep it. Anouk kept wanting to throw it back in the water because that’s what she was doing with all the rocks she picked up… I had to hide it from her. She can be a little terror when she wants.
So, I moved in Thursday morning. Anouk sulked on the stairs. “Pourqoui est-elle s’en va, Rebecca?” 😦 Something like that. It made me feel bad. I promised to return, or tried to. Emilie said I could come whenever, for tuesday and wednesday nights since there is no class in elementary schools Wednesday, or for weekends… For Christmas… This week is the first one I haven’t spent at least 2 days with them. It feels weird.
Anyway, Emilie lent me a toaster oven, her friend/fellow teacher Isabelle lent me a microwave. Marie helped me get my suitcase to the third floor, which is fourth floor American style. I was so happy to get all my stuff out of my suitcase…
I walked to Orange and bought a sim card for my old French phone. I had a bit of a freak out, because I was frustrated that I’d been there a week and I was still sorting out the basics of my life and I couldn’t get internet without a phone number. Yay wifirst. All because I really wanted to send an email. I’m really silly sometimes. So, I wandered around until I found an Orange.
Got a bank account later that day. Emilie’s mom certainly knows her way around bank stuff… She seems all formal and serious, but she’s really really nice. I remember sitting there and seeing some of Anouk’s personality in her. And then I think about how Anouk is just like Emilie… So basically it’s three generations of a very similar personality, except Mme Mas is the only one that seems so somber at first.
The next day, Emilie and I had a mini-orientation led by Marie on how to teach English. Emilie was terrified because she doesn’t know English. While Marie was trying to find something in a different room or something, Emilie was looking through a book and asking me how to pronounce things.
She got to the “Can I go to the toilets, please?” part, my sarcasm struck. Emile read the answers in the book “Yes, you can,” and “No, not right now,” before, without even thinking, I said, “No. You have to pee in your pants.”
She thought it was hilarious. (Such is the amazing thing about languages; we can understand so much more than we think we can…) Apparently she told all of the other teachers at Turgot about that… And their response was,”Rebecca said that?! But she’s so serious!” “Pas de tout!” was Emilie’s response… Not at all, not at all… Maybe a bit shy and way introverted.
I could continue telling my life like a story, but I have a feeling it’s boring. So I’m going to stop. I’ll just mention things as time passes. 🙂 There’s so much I can’t get it all, anyway.
Oh, and sorry for the abundance of parenthetical phrases, if I didn’t already apologize for it…